Ingredient Library

Understanding skincare ingredients doesn’t have to be complicated.

Whether you’ve spotted an ingredient on social media, read it on the back of a product or had it recommended during a consultation, this library is here to explain what it does, who it may benefit and when it might not be the right choice.

Because effective skincare isn’t about following trends. It’s about understanding your skin and choosing ingredients that work for you.

Please note: There are very few “good” or “bad” skincare ingredients. The right ingredient depends on your skin, your goals and how it’s formulated. If you are unsure, a professional skin consultation can help you choose what’s right for you.

Retinoids (Vitamin A)

Retinoids are considered the gold standard in skincare. They work by increasing cell turnover, supporting collagen production and improving the appearance of acne, pigmentation and signs of ageing.

Best for

  • Acne

  • Fine lines and wrinkles

  • Pigmentation

  • Uneven skin texture

May not suit
Very sensitive skin, skin with a compromised barrier, or during pregnancy (certain forms of retinoid). They should usually be introduced gradually.

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)

A multi-tasking ingredient that supports the skin barrier, helps regulate oil production and can reduce visible redness while improving overall skin resilience.

Best for

  • Oily skin

  • Enlarged pores

  • Redness

  • Barrier support

May not suit
Higher concentrations can cause flushing, irritation or breakouts in some people, particularly when introduced too quickly.

Lactic Acid (AHA)

A gentler exfoliating acid that also helps attract moisture into the skin, making it a good choice for many dry skin types.

Best for

  • Dry skin

  • Mild pigmentation

  • Uneven texture

  • Dullness

May not suit
Very compromised or highly reactive skin may still find it irritating if introduced too frequently.

Hyaluronic Acid

A humectant that helps attract and retain water within the skin, improving hydration and comfort.

Best for

  • Dehydrated skin

  • Tight skin

  • All skin types

May not suit
Some lightweight formulas can leave skin feeling tight if not followed with a moisturiser to help seal hydration into the skin.

Vitamin C

A powerful antioxidant that helps brighten the complexion, support collagen production and defend the skin against environmental damage.

Best for

  • Dull skin

  • Pigmentation

  • Uneven skin tone

  • Prevention of premature ageing

May not suit
Some formulations can sting sensitive skin, particularly those containing pure L-Ascorbic Acid at higher concentrations.


Salicylic Acid (BHA)

An oil-soluble exfoliating acid that works inside the pore, making it particularly effective for congestion and blemishes.

Best for

  • Blackheads

  • Congested skin

  • Acne

  • Excess oil

May not suit
Very dry, reactive or barrier-impaired skin. Overuse can lead to dryness and irritation.

Peptides

Peptides are short chains of amino acids that help support healthy skin function and improve the appearance of firmness over time.

Best for

  • Fine lines

  • Loss of firmness

  • Barrier support

  • Mature skin

May not suit
Peptides themselves are generally well tolerated, but the surrounding formulation may still irritate very sensitive skin.

Zinc PCA

A combination of zinc and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid that helps regulate excess oil while supporting calmer-looking skin.

Best for

  • Oily skin

  • Acne-prone skin

  • Congestion

May not suit
Very dry or dehydrated skin may find repeated use too mattifying.


Azelaic Acid

A versatile ingredient that helps calm inflammation, reduce redness, improve pigmentation and support acne-prone skin.

Best for

  • Acne

  • Rosacea

  • Pigmentation

  • Sensitive skin

May not suit
Some people experience mild tingling or dryness when first introducing it, although it’s generally well tolerated.

Glycolic Acid (AHA)

An exfoliating acid that helps improve skin texture, brightness and pigmentation by removing dead skin cells from the surface.

Best for

  • Dull skin

  • Uneven texture

  • Pigmentation

  • Fine lines

May not suit
Sensitive or inflamed skin, particularly rosacea-prone skin. It can also increase sun sensitivity.


Ceramides

Ceramides are naturally found within the skin and play a vital role in maintaining a healthy skin barrier and reducing moisture loss.

Best for

  • Dry skin

  • Sensitive skin

  • Barrier repair

  • Dehydrated skin

May not suit
Most skin types tolerate ceramides well, although very rich formulations may feel heavy on some oily skins..